Bouafer Track
Two days ago I was leaving to go on a motorcycle excursion that I really wanted to do. Every time I visit my friends at Kasbah Meteorites Alnif, Mustapha Ben Ouoch recommends a route with views of Jbel Saghro. It is a total of about 120 km of track and about 80 km of road, making a loop from Alnif. A perfect route for a maxi-trail like the BMW R1250GS HP. Sounds good, huh? Yes… as long as you don’t understand things backwards and, after 25 km, instead of taking the detour to the right, you continue straight.
BMW R1250GS HP is The Weapon
The new GS is so capable that at first I even found it fun to go over the rocks. The motorcycle passes, it always passes. But of course… I didn’t think that the thing would last for about twenty kilometers, and that, as you understand, is tiring. And a lot! The 250Kg motorcycle requires a lot of technique and resistance. I resisted, yes, and I almost reached the limit. The body, with so much effort, asks for a lot of water. The three liters I had in my bag, enough for the route I intended to take, were being consumed quickly. The sun was beginning to set and the conditions of the “route” did not improve. I had no choice but to turn off the engine of the R1250GS HP, a.k.a. “The Weapon”, and assume that he would sleep among large stones.
I have a “half” coverage line on the phone, which appears and disappears. I try to talk to Mustapha. I know he must be worried. I finally manage to communicate with him, although I have to try again several times to be able to explain where I am. Thanks to the coordinates that the BMW Navigator V tells me, Mustapha can see my position. I was definitely on the wrong track. Me and the bike were fine, so I tell him not to worry and that tomorrow I will continue.
Sleeping rough without camping equipment
Sweaty, without camping equipment or an extra coat, I had to sleep outside. It was an interesting night. When the cold entered my body I would get up and walk illuminated by my flashlight and millions of stars. He took the opportunity to reconnoiter the terrain, going up and down the mountain, and examine the alternatives. I walked at a slow pace, so as not to burn more energy than necessary, and swallowed a couple of drops of the little water I had left, and thus quench the sensation of thirst. Then I would stretch out again on the cold earth, face up, making a wish on each shooting star that passed.
Now I can tell three of the wishes I made, because they have already been fulfilled and I am not in danger of them disappearing. The first was to find water, which was accomplished at the end of the odyssey (ha ha ha!). The second, that the stones would be finished. Well, this was not fulfilled, but I agreed that it would be 20Km of stones and not 20.5Km. And the third, that the rear wheel not burst, punished relentlessly by the sharp stones. After a while the cold came back to get me and I repeated the operation. At 1,900 meters the coolness is already beginning to be noticed.
Having stones for breakfast
It is Sunrising. What a spectacle of colors! I stand up and analyze my surroundings. I decide not to go down to the river. The stones are very big and I don’t want to risk destroying the tires. That would mean that the motorcycle would stay there, in the river, and that if the heavy rains returned, well… we can already imagine what could happen. The only way I can think of to rescue a fat bike from that inhospitable place is by helicopter. I don’t think BMW Motorrad Spain would be very happy about it, after the trust they have in me and letting me test the BMW R1250GS HP, presented a few weeks ago.
So, I go to another alternative and turn The Machine facing upwards. For breakfast: stones! I reach the track and continue until a cut part. You have to climb about two meters of dirt and stone, with a lot of unevenness, being careful not to fall downwards. Glups! I don’t think about it anymore and give gas to the HP. In one jump we reached the top. We are safe! I continue with more stone in the hope that it will disappear. That is one of my wishes but when will it be fulfilled?
No water, but the Berbers help me
A tiny drop of water comes out of my hydration pack. The last. I don’t even see goats around here. According to the BMW Navigator, there shouldn’t be much left to reach the good track, but I’m tired. I haven’t slept, I’m thirsty and my hunger has passed, a sign that I’m very dehydrated. But finally, when exiting a curve I see the track! Good! I “only” have to swallow the scree on the way down. My strength is scarce and the rush gives me energy to overcome the difficulties of the terrain. I meet a shepherd and his goats. Chattering some French, he tells me that that road is not good, that no one goes that way anymore. I ask him for water or milk and he tells me where his house is. I thank him as best I can. It’s hard for me to even talk!
More stones until we reach the shepherd’s house. His family was waiting for me with a smile that revealed his thoughts: “But where are you going, kid!” I follow them to a room where they have tea prepared. I drink it as if it were just water. One of the girls brings me a giant glass of fresh water. I guess it’s well water, so it won’t hurt me, although at the time I cared little about that. I ask him for another glass. The mother brings me bread, oil, honey and a glass, also huge, of fresh goat’s milk. At least, but it seems that water and milk have been enough for me for the moment. I hope that in a while I will work up an appetite.
The warrior’s rest. The HP as if nothing
I ask them for a blanket and I lie down on one of the mattresses. A boy gives me a pillow. An army of flies go towards the little table, attacking everything on top. I cover myself with the blanket up to my head and try to sleep.
When I wake up, I fill my water bag for the road and say goodbye to my rescuers, thanking them and some money that I had on hand. They helped me from the heart and not for money, but I didn’t know how to make it up to them. After talking to my friend Mustapha, from the Kasbah Meteorites (highly recommended, in Alnif, with very good food), I decided that the best thing would be to return along the good track to Alnif, and rest there. About 50 km of track without rocks were waiting for me! Although at first I was a little dazed, after a few kilometers I began to feel better and enjoy the track and the landscape more and more.
Remember me and the BMW R1250GS HP if someone talk to you about the Bouafer track. Ha ha ha!